Almost perfect day of cruising....

[shelbyscarab]

Well, took my wife out yesterday afternoon for a drive, top down, 90 degrees, roughly 70 mile jaunt. Great day till the end.

As I turned onto our road (2 1/2 miles from home), I felt some hesitations and the steering went stiff, we coasted to a stop on the side of the road. I was at a loss. Battery was fine (brand new), oil is more than fine (just changed it), temp. was fine, YES, I had fuel 3/4 tank, and I check a list of smaller things also. Not a clue, other than a possible fuel pump problem, which still is my guess. I tried turning it over a few times, plenty of juice from the batt., engine sounded fine trying to turn over, but wouldn't. Let it set 10-15 min. and was ABLE to get it going, went a mile down the road then it died again, same way. Again, let it sit about 5 min. and I was able to get it started and down the road the last mile and into my garage, (thank God). I'm just glad it happened close to home.

Anyone have any other suggestions? or do you agree with me? I'm pretty sure it has the original fuel pump.

Its in the gas tank, isn't it???? Gotta drop it, right?

Any info or help would be appreciated.

[bigzeke42]

Might check fuel filter first.

[Sandy]

I'm gonna be odd man out. I think it's an electrical problem, possibly affecting the ignition wiring.

[svt1996cobra]

What you can do to see if you have fuel pressure, is take a rag, put it around the schrader valve in you fuel line going to the injectors and see if there is fuel pressure there, it looks like a valve stem, if you have pressure you know there is not an issue with your fuel pump.

You can also take an old spark plug an see if you are getting spark when the engine turns over, if it is the module you won't have spark or your injectors won't spray fuel.

Hope that helps!

David

[stangmodifier]

I had an intermittant problem that was much similar. I ended up dropping the tank to replace the pump and noticed that one of the 2 wires in the tank that plug the pump into the system had a bare spot. When the fuel sloshed around sometimes the bare spot would touch the frame of the pump and short it to ground. A dip in the road also caused the problem as the wires jiggled a bit and made occasional contact. All I did to fix was to unplug the wire and slip a shrinksleeve over it where it would rub the pump frame. I did both wires to be sure. No more problems for the next few years and I believe it is still running on the original pump. Might not be your problem but maybe...

[mustangjim]

Hi-

On the 86's, check the fuel pump relay.

1st - Check the inertia switch located in the rear hatch bay adjacent to the latch, press the reset button. Also check the fuel pump connector in the spare tire well.

2nd - Turn the key to the accessory position, you should hear the fuel pump priming, also listen under the drivers seat to hear the relay cycle. If the pump primes & relay clicks, you can rule that out.

3rd - Check for fuel by removing the cap on the Schrader Valve with the key in accessory position, you should have fuel (read the previous post for safety).

4th - If pump, switch & relay test good & you have fuel at the Shrader, suspect ignition source, Check your rotor/cap/wires if all are good suspect the ignition module.

5th - Check for connector integrity at the ignition module, wiggle the connectors, check for cracks, disconnect the connector & inspect for corrosion or evidence of melting wires, pins or connector half melting.

If you find the fuel pump is not operating, pump replacement is simple. The pump is inside the tank. Disconnect the Battery, then the fuel pump connector in the spare tire well. Drain as much fuel as you can by siphon. Remove the two tank strap bolts under the tank, support & lower the fuel tank with a jack while observing the filler neck & gasket. Use a BRASS drift to loosen the pump retainer nut & remove the pump. Swap the pick up assembly and filter screen onto a new pump, install a new filler neck gasket & replace the Fuel Filter. Install is reverse order. Whole job takes less than hour.

Good Luck, Please advise,
Jim

[plumkrazy]

Ok, I have had the same problems. It's always been the Ignition module on the side of the distributor. A no spark problem. Get gets hot and stops working after a cool down it works then gets hot and no spark.
this was a very common problem in the 80s and 90's with Fords. LOTS AND LOTS of escorts and tempo's but it has happened to me on Capri,Mustang,150,f250 and a GOOOLE

As for fuel pump.

A. listen for it when turning key on but dont crank.
B. Carry/get some starter fluid to spray in throttle body when not running.

[asc709]

Had the same problem a few years back and it was the fuel pump. I have it down to a 30 minute science. You'll need some new white retaining clips and some ingenuity (read: two small flathead screwdrivers and patience) removing one of the fuel lines (delivery I think). Also good to have a fuel filler neck rubber gasket (from the Ford dealer) as the rubber breaks down and probably is ripped. Always do this with as little fuel in the tank as possible, siphon it out if needed.

1. Release pressure from the schrader valve (or at the fuel filter which will need to be replaced anyway)
2. Unplug wiring behind tank
3. Position jack at the fuel tank.
4. Unbolt the tank retaining straps
5. Slowly drop the tank (not all the way).
6. Disconnect fuel lines
7. Slowly drop tank while twisting to release it from the filler neck rubber gasket.
8. Use a brass drift and hammer to tap the metal retaining ring around until the ring is free from the tabs.
9. Remove pump assembly
10. Reassemble pump assembly with new pump and new filter sock being careful to orient the sock in the right direction
11. Reverse steps 2 - 8

First time should take ~2 or 3 hours, it gets easier every time you do it. Oh, and as mentioned above disconnect the battery before even starting!

[bigzeke42]

What's a BRASS DRIFT?

[mustangjim]

Zeke-

A Brass Drift is a metal rod made of Brass (also called a Straight Punch), so it will not SPARK when struck with a hammer. Sparks and Fuel Tanks aren't a good mix. There are also Brass hammers made specifically for work in combustible environments.

Jim

[bigzeke42]

Thanks Jim.

[plumkrazy]

TTT

It's been a couple of days any word yet on what the problem is/was

Mark

[shelbyscarab]

Thanks everyone, for all the input on this. I haven't had a whole lot of time this week to dive into the problem. I am going to check out the fuel filter first though. I did start it up last night and it seemed to run fine, I'm just leary of driving it anywhere. And, the fuel pump was working, I heard it. I think it may need to be hooked up to one of those machines to do a diagnostics check over all of the systems. Its also been 3 years since I've given it a complete tune up, I think I may also put in new plugs, wires, & cap.

I called a Ford dealer that I've used in the past and they told me I'm looking at $455 to do the fuel pump.

This coming week it'll be taken care of as I want have it ready for the 4th......

[mandra]

Another vote for the TFI module. Couldn't hurt to have an extra even if it's not the TFI now because it will be at some point. This is one of the most common issues that strand people in fox bodies I know.

Best of luck

[tfs2121]

i have no clue with out looking at it but i vote for the TFI over the fuel pump